What: Bistro Tartine
Where: 52 Cleary Street, Hamilton
Prices: Entrée from $20 to $22; main from $36 to $39; Morpeth sourdough bread, $9; sides, $9.50, dessert $14, cheese plate, two for $16, three for $19
Chefs: Mark Hosie (executive) and Chris Thornton
Wines: Well chosen selection of reasonably priced Hunter and other wines, nine by the glass, no BYO Saturdays
Hours: Lunch Thursday to Friday, noon to 3pm; dinner Tuesday to Saturday, from 6pm
Vegetarian: Ask staff if you have special dietary requirements
Bookings: 4965 3648
Bottom line: Entrée, main, dessert for two, about $140 without drinks
There is always a risk that a popular and established restaurant can sit on its laurels and rely on returning business, particularly when the chef/owner is busy elsewhere. Mark Hosie has been less of a presence at Hamilton's Bistro Tartine since he opened The Italian Kitchen at the Lambton Park Hotel in late 2009 but expert delegation and a kitchen brigade under the command of the talented Chris Thornton has ensured continuity both front and back of house.
The tightly structured menu has kept some old favourites - chicken liver pate and the terrine de maison are still there as are the confit duck leg and 300-gram Cape Grim Scotch fillet. But there is enough innovation to keep the excitement going.
Silky house-made pasta encases fine mushroom duxelles in a single pillowy ravioli. The whole is bathed in a mushroom-dotted creamy sauce which on first sight looks heavy and rich. But looks can be deceiving. This sauce has a mousse-like consistency and provides the perfect counterpoint to the earthy mushroom and al dente asparagus. A confetti of fines herbes (chives, parsley and chervil) and whole micro herbs complete the picture.
Even those challenged by the very thought of offal will have no problems with the slow-braised ox tongue. The meat is finely sliced and folded over a tangle of julienne celeriac bathed in remoulade sauce with a liberal scattering of toasted hazelnuts providing crunch. The capers, parsley and cornichons in the sauce, together with a drizzle of Pedro Ximenez vinegar, cut through the richness.
Only a master chef could have conceived the double cutlet and braised shoulder of lamb and achieved such perfection. Where many would present the two cuts separately, the kitchen has created an oversized cutlet by moulding the slow-cooked and meltingly tender shoulder meat around the double cutlet, encasing the whole in crepine (pig's caul) then cooking it until appetisingly brown on the outside but still pink inside. Thank goodness for a decent wedge of truffle-perfumed sarladaise potato cake to mop up every last drop of the intensely flavoured jus. Roasted tomato and vibrant spinach complete a well-rounded dish.
But the dish of the night must be the assiette of rabbit. The tiniest rib bones define the crown, pancetta wraps the succulent leg and a creamy fricassee fills a fine cannelloni. The meat melts in the mouth but never disappoints by being bland. A pool of madeira jus, cylinders of carrot and a swirl of carrot puree unite all the components.
Burnt honey parfait is not as solid as the name suggests. The small brick of light and creamy, nut-dotted, intensely flavoured ice cream is drizzled with more honey and topped with sticky, miniature candied Persian figs.
With delegation so seamless and a chef so talented, Mark Hosie can be confident Bistro Tartine will maintain its solid reputation and remain a Hamilton institution.
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