What: Emerson's at Pokolbin
Where: 1014 Hermitage Road, Pokolbin
Prices: Entree, $23; main, $38; dessert, $16; side orders (steamed beans and mesclun salad), $9; degustation, $90 per person, $120 with matching wines
Chef: Emerson Rodriguez
Wines: Small list concentrating on premium and small winemaker local wines, only four by the glass.
Hours: Lunch, Thursday to Monday; dinner, Thursday to Sunday.
Vegetarian: One entree, one main
Bookings: 4998 7733
Bottom line: Entree, main and dessert for two, $154 plus drinks.
The novel accommodation at Casuarina Estate - with its French bordello, African and Love Boat themes among others - may be familiar but Emerson and Samantha Rodriguez's restaurant is a totally new experience.
The iconic flambés of yesteryear are no more. In their place at Emerson's of Pokolbin are tapas-style lunches and modern Australian degustation and à la carte offerings at night.
It's obvious there is a sure hand in the kitchen and a chef who respects top-quality ingredients and appreciates local produce.
Flavour, texture and colour are what this food is all about. An amuse bouche demitasse of vibrant green pea soup permeated with truffle oil wakes the taste buds and gives a glimpse of what is to come.
Waiters no longer have to balance the architectural edifices that have been the norm for so long. Enter what could best be described as landscape architecture with each component given star billing in a composite whole. At least it's easy to carry.
The brilliant orange of the house-cured ocean trout contrasts with dots of green chive oil and chive creme fraiche, while a cylinder of smoked trout mousse and three golden potato blinis provide their own counterpoint to the sweet salty flavour of the ocean trout.
Sweet, dark purple baby beetroot and a sweep of beetroot puree together with a little balsamic vinegar balance the tang of the lemon beurre noisette. But these are just supporting acts for the main event - rich goat's-cheese-filled silky tortellini.
Oven-roasted saddle of lamb is broken down into its parts, the lean tenderloin succulently pink through but with a well-browned crust, the fattier part crisply skinned and juicy. Baby carrots, turnips and asparagus complete the picture but a couple of smears of potato cream are just not quite enough to mop up the intensely flavoured jus.
Falling-apart beef brisket contrasts nicely with the firm but tender sirloin and a crunchy beignet of bone marrow. Colourful baby vegetables and carrot puree are tasty but fail in the mopping-up stakes. Potato or some bread would be lovely with the sticky truffle-flavoured sauce Perigueux.
Next the dessert dilemma - will it be chocolate pave with honeycomb and strawberry ice cream, classic creme brulee, mango set creme with cashew crumbs and coconut sorbet or millefeuille of roasted apples?
The millefeuille pastry shatters into a thousand leaves revealing lovely caramelised apple pieces and Chantilly cream. A tad icy apple gelato perches on crunchy shards of caramel and continues the apple theme. Golden sugar crust shatters satisfyingly under the spoon to reveal rich, creamy vanilla-flavoured custard.
A creme brulee at its classical best confirms first impressions: Emerson Rodriguez is on track to build a new tradition at Casuarina.
Email a friend