What: Esca Bimbadgen
Where: 790 McDonald’s Road, Pokolbin
Prices: Entrees, $24 to $25; mains, $36;tasting plates, including three tasting glasses of wine, $34; desserts, $16; cheese plate, $22
Chef: Bradley Teale
Wines: Mainly Bimbadgen, particularly by the glass
Hours: Lunch every day
Extras: Potato puree, Green beans, two salads, all $8; French fries, $7
Vegetarian: One entree
Bookings: 4998 7585
Bottom line: Entree, main, dessert – about $140 for two plus drinks
On a mild and sunny spring day what could be better than to meander through burgeoning vines, then sit at a table where on a clear day you can see forever or at least as far as the Barrington Tops?
The word "esca" can mean bait in Italian. Perhaps this refers to the ongoing ability of Bradley Teale's cooking to lure potential diners from the winery downstairs.
You could go the traditional path with entree, main and dessert but why not pick one, or if you are hungry, both, of the tasting plates ($34 each). There's a white plate three fish and seafood morsels with complementary white wines. And there's a red plate three meaty offerings with complementary red wines.
The white tasting plate offers a selection of three of the listed entrees, set out in small piles on a rectangular white plate. A fine wafer of toasted sourdough provides a crunchy counterpoint to an avocado, tomato, cucumber and herb salsa topping a meaty prawn sitting on a white gazpacho, an almond-rich version of the classic cold tomato soup. Second in line, calamari, is stuffed with couscous, parsley and preserved lemon, then roasted and sliced to sit on a pool of za'atar (oregano, thyme and savory, mixed with sesame seed) spiced yogurt and diced roasted red capsicum a nice blend of middle-eastern flavours. But the best is saved until the last. A small slice of smoked salmon and dill-flavoured cream cheese terrine perches on a puddle of soft-boiled egg and chervil mayonnaise. The chervil's delicate aniseed notes complement the more aggressive dill. Perfectly al dente asparagus provides a nice texture contrast.
The red tasting plate features three offerings from the mains menu. On your left, a portion of crisp, wood spit-roasted duck skin covering some medium-cooked duck breast is matched by the crunch of saute{aac}ed nashi pear slices and a smidgen of chilli jam. Duck with fruit perfect. Next, saute{aac}ed loin of veal, maybe a little too well done, but its garnish of sangiovese-marinated figs, peppery watercress and salty, earthy anchoiade sauce and kipfler potato goes a long way to compensate. Last but not least are a couple of slices of char-grilled lamb fillet perched atop a small square of caramelised onion and rosemary galette and a splodge of intense olive tapenade. Crumbled feta and shredded spinach completes the picture.
The service is attentive but not hurried and we are enjoying the view. Dessert? Why not?
Hazelnut praline ice-cream with Frangelico and espresso, a very posh espresso affogato, has been on the menu since the beginning and would probably create an outcry if removed. But I choose the chocolate fondant ($15). This is more a steamed chocolate pudding and lacks the required molten centre, but comes with yummy mint ice-cream and pureed raspberries. A better choice is the lime tart ($15). Its caramel-crusted tangy and creamy filling, and fine pastry is perfectly complemented by a gin and tonic sorbet.
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