What: The Kitchen
Where: 133 Darby Street, Cooks Hill
Prices: Breads/appetisers, $6 to $10; entrees, $15 to $18, plus tasting plate, $25; mains, $20 to $28; desserts, $12.50; cheeseboards, $14
Chef: John Rutherford
Wines: Interesting wine list with varieties chosen according to regions for which they are well known. Nine by the glass
Hours: Breakfast, lunch, dinner seven days, from 6.30am to 11pm
Extras: Salad, $6; potatoes, $8; buttered vegetables, $8
Vegetarian: Two breads, one starter, two mains
Bookings: 4925 3470
Bottom line: Entree, main, dessert for two, without wine, about $120
You could be forgiven for going no further than the gelato bar. But there's so much more here than meets the eye, from the Tardis-like space to the well-chosen dinner menu, belying the impression this is just somewhere to enjoy a quick coffee and cake.
That's not to say you can't do this as well, but tonight we are here to spend a bit more time. The pouring rain removes the alfresco option so it's up some stairs and into a surprisingly spacious dining room.
Water and suggestions for a pre-dinner drink arrive pronto, but when are eateries in this town going to offer some plain bread? I don't necessarily want to eat bread as an entree, so object to paying $6 or more, but wouldn't mind paying a couple of dollars if only a basket of small rolls would come as a matter of course.
The emphasis is on fresh and seasonal produce and an entree of house-cured ocean trout with a fennel and orange salad ($18) fits the bill to a tee. Soft and silky slices of trout are layered with finely sliced red onion, shavings of fennel and fillets of orange, a few capers strewn around adding a traditional note. A scattering of baby salad leaves and some feathery fennel tops complete the picture.
The ubiquitous salt and pepper squid can sometimes disappoint. Too often they are brought in already prepared. Not here though. Sichuan pepper and salt squid ($17) has the order right. The pepper brings a pungent bite with salt taking a back seat. There is just enough apple and saffron aioli and chilli jam, and the squid is so tender it could be cut with a spoon.
Rib eye fillet of beef ($28) comes medium rare, as ordered. The asparagus is perfectly al dente, but the chips, criss-crossed pont neuf style, could have been crisper. On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with the textbook be{aac}arnaise sauce melting over the steak, nor the red wine jus underneath.
Much as I love lamb rump I find a whole one just a bit too much. Here ($27) it's sliced, then barbecued to tender pinkness, then layered over vibrant green beans and golden roast kipfler potatoes. The sauce romescu with its smoky red capsicum, pungent garlic overtones and almond crunch is rich enough to match the lamb. Mint aioli as well is too much of a good thing.
Moscato and berry jelly with champagne sorbet ($12.50) must be as close as you can get to a guilt-free dessert. The jelly is ruby red and wobbly and studded with strawberries, blueberries and raspberries. A small dish of fine champagne sorbet is all that is needed as an accompaniment.
Wobbly espresso panna cotta with creme anglaise and crackly almond praline ($12.50) is sinfully rich but a scattering of berries and coulis at one side removes some guilt.
The assortment of tiny tarts and gateaux in the display case will have to wait for another time perhaps afternoon tea or a coffee break.
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