What: The Source Cafe
Where: Shop 1/74-76 The Lane, Maryville
Prices: Entrees $8.50 to $17, mains $16.50 to $28.50, desserts $4 to $9.50 and $14.50 for liqueur affogato
Chef: John du’Bery
Wines: Small wine list, 16 by the glass
Extras: breads, $6.50.
Vegetarian: Two bruschetta, three entrees, one main
Hours: Breakfast and lunch every day
from 7.30am to 3pm; dinner, Friday and Saturday 5pm to 9pm
Bookings: 4940 8023
Bottom line: Entree, main and dessert, about $100 for two
At almost any time during the day, any day of the week, you'll be sure to find breakfasting cyclists, cappuccino-sipping mums with bubs, lunching ladies and recuperating walkers all enjoying the ambience at Source. It's not so very long ago that this quiet stretch of Throsby Creek was run down and lined with old wool stores left to rot on the weed-infested shore. The past decade has seen the growth of sought-after townhouse living and the creation of a walking and cycle track, stretching from Nobbys to the Industrial Highway bridge over Styx Creek. Where better to put a trendy cafe?
Breakfast offers a range of delectable delights, including breakfast burritos, some very indulgent French toasted brioche with bananas in caramel sauce, or savoury sweetcorn and shallot cakes with bacon and apple and tomato chutney, but dinner is what we are looking for.
The entrees include a couple of substantial bruschettas ($12.50) , beer-battered chips ($8.50), panzanella haloumi salad ($14.50), and arancini with mushrooms, pesto and mozzarella ($15.50). Or you could just as easily choose one of the three breads, perhaps the hot Turkish pide bread with Za'atar spice, feta, olives and extra virgin olive oil ($8.50).
Japanese tempura king prawns ($17) is revealed as five king prawns coated with a thick tempura batter, then piled into a small dish, next to a mound of shredded wom bok and coconut. This rather bland salad is lifted by a mango and kaffir lime coulis and a few slices of red chilli. Should we have chosen the arancini, or the slow-roasted tomato, basil, olive and chilli oil bruschetta being enjoyed at the next table?
The main courses promise more. We are asked how we would like the Cowra lamb rump ($28.50) and the seared Atlantic salmon ($24.50). Both come medium rare as requested.
The lamb is coated with a balsamic glaze, roasted, sliced thickly and fanned over a firm mascarpone-enriched polenta cake which helps in mopping up every last drop of the rich thyme-infused jus. Green beans, a little too al dente for me, give colour and texture contrast.
Your cardiac surgeon would be happy with the Atlantic salmon, its crisp skin oozing lots of good oils. I'm not sure red cabbage and radish make a great slaw unless the kitchen can achieve a very fine chiffonnade. It's all a bit coarse and crunchy for me and the unevenly cut batons of apple don't improve things. But I love the paprika-roasted chats and bright green asparagus spears.
Creme brulee is a real test of the kitchen's skill and it passes with flying colours. The cream is smooth and rich and slightly warm and the crust crackles under the spoon. A tumble of honeycomb to one side draws a line under the predominant flavours, and a piece of biscotti adds its own crunch.
Come for breakfast, lunch or dinner, or make a special date and check out the monthly full-moon menu. It's all pretty good value.
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