Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve review, Ubud, Bali: This is a holiday you'll never forget

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Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve review, Ubud, Bali: This is a holiday you'll never forget

By Kylie McLaughlin
Updated
This is one of Traveller’s best-reviewed hotels of 2023.See all stories.
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Sitting on the outskirts of Ubud in a verdant valley alongside a magnificent hook in the Ayung River, Mandapa (meaning 'temple' in Sankskrit) wows from the moment you step foot into its grand lobby, which sits resplendently atop the property and has breathtaking views. After a refreshing towel and welcome drink, staff escort you down the steep hillside on golf carts to one of their suites or villas.

The Look

The pool at Mandapa.

The pool at Mandapa.

Ritz-Carlton Reserve properties are far and few between, which gives you an inkling how special this property is. Modelled on a traditional village and offering a sense of place outside Bali's cultural and spiritual heart of Ubud, the beautifully landscaped property does well to disguise its buildings which include three restaurants, spa and kids' club, which all blend in seamlessly with its surroundings. Separating the pool, bar and restaurant area from the riverside villas are working rice paddies that are maintained by a crew of local farmers. Back up to the top, the open-air lobby is surrounded in water features which reflect the sunset, and guests are encouraged to its bar to watch the sun set behind the hills opposite.

The Room

Here at Mandapa, guests are assigned a butler or "patih" (assistant to the Balinese king) who is available via Whatsapp for any of your requirements, whether it be a lift to the pool or shopping recommendations. Make no mistake, service here is of the highest standard. We're checked into one of the penthouse style-suites which are located in imposing buildings on the hillside, with views across the property. Sleek and sophisticated, with dark wood, traditional Balinese furnishings and works of art by local artists - some of which took two years to paint - these suites are palatial, with a living and dining area, bathrooms with his and her sinks and Toto Japanese toilets, a walk-in wardrobe and large balcony. The room is well-serviced and guests never want for bottled water, fresh fruit in woven bamboo baskets, and Balinese style snacks, wrapped in banana leaves. We even receive personal notes from our housekeepers, with a towel shaped into an elephant sprinkled with frangipani petals and our patih, Marka, leaves us a small gift on our departure.

Food & Drink

Meals here are fit for a queen, and leave no reason to venture outside the resort. Breakfast at Sawah Terrace overlooks the rushing Ayung river and offers a high-quality buffet, with stations operated by staff offering an array of tempting dishes including Balinese style (martabak manis) pancakes topped with nuts, condensed milk and butter; buttery pastries with jackfruit and lychee; fresh tropical fruit with dragonfruit-flavoured yoghurt or noodle soups. Order items from the menu and while you wait you'll be served coffee and fresh juice or samples of Balinese treats. Lunch is served from the pool bar and offers an array of western dishes such as burrata with fresh tomato and basil, homemade pastas, raw seafood or grilled barramundi, pizzas and burgers, while musicians play gamelan in the background. Dinner at fine-dining Kumu is unforgettable. Each table is seated in one of nine dimly-lit teardrop-shaped bamboo huts by the river, while a six or eight course degustation featuring Mediterranean cuisine with Balinese-sourced ingredients, immaculately presented, is a highlight of any visit. If you can squeeze it in (which is quite the challenge), high tea is served at the lobby bar which includes a mix of Balinese satays, springs rolls, baos and sushi along with French patisserie and Indonesian cakes.

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Out & About

The resort runs frequent shuttles to the centre of Ubud, which is around a 10 minute drive, but you'll have to find your own way back (which is easy, with Grab and Gojek apps). Anything can be arranged for guests who want to do more independent travel - including scooters. But the hotel also offers a number of tours and trips that tick all boxes, including 'Signature' tours from their convertible Volkswagons which take in Ubud's greatest hits and some further afield.

The Verdict

More than just somewhere to lay your hat, Mandapa offers an immersive experience you're unlikely to ever forget.

OUR RATING OUT OF FIVE

★★★★★

Essentials

Jalan Kedewatan, Banjar Kedewatan Gianyar, Ubud, Bali 80571, Indonesia. PH: +62 361 4792777; Ritzcarlton.com; Suites start from $1250 per night.

Highlight

People pay good money just to see the view, so to be living in it for several nights is magical. Also the food, the service - especially from our butler, Marka - was all sublime.

Lowlight

With any place a little special, isolation is an issue but there is no finer place to be isolated in.

The writer was a guest of Marriott

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